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23Jun/102

EVERGREEN WITH ENVY

The beauty of the Wine Bloggers Conference this year is that (besides me not being there) is that my wine blogging brethren will get to see what I have seen – how awesome Walla Walla Valley and Washington State wines are! I am “ever”green with envy right now, but still, I like the fact that I am at least chillin’ at home with my wife and “mi ejército de panteras pequeñas”.

At least for now, I want to drop a bit of Washington state wine primer on those who aren’t completely familiar with the state.

For starters, most people think of Washington state as a rain forest, in that it’s raining all the time, it’s grey skies and dreary (Thank you Twilight books and movies for perpetuating that image). True enough that Seattle and much of the Washington state coastline (and anything to the west of the Cascade Mountain range) is indeed a rainforest-type of climate. Yet go due east of the Cascades, and the climate is that of a desert. With over 300 days of cloudless sunshine and an annual rainfall of around 7 inches, coupled with rich, volcanic soils, and you have yourself the ideal climate to grow just about any grape variety you could want.

While Chardonnay is the number one grape variety right now, one could argue that its best wines come from Riesling, Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. However, there are some equally good Sauvignon Blanc, Malbec, Pinot Gris, Semillon and many others.

Washington State currently has 11 recognized AVAs (American Viticultural Area):

Columbia Valley
Yakima Valley
Walla Walla Valley
Rattlesnake Hills
Red Mountain
Lake Chelan
Puget Sound
Wahluke Slope
Columbia Gorge
Horse Heaven Hills
Snipes Mountain

The second largest wine producer amongst the 50 states, it is fast becoming no surprise to critics that this region is home to some of the United States’ finest wines, yet is still somewhat surprising to consumers. Aside from Columbia Crest, Chateau Ste. Michelle (which are co-owned by Ste. Michelle and Estates) and Hogue Cellars – the 3 largest producers in the state – the majority of Washington State wineries have very small production bases.

And while the industry is relatively young in the state – Chateau Ste. Michelle was the first bonded winery in Washington, established in 1954 as American Wine Co. (which was a merger of the National Wine Co. and Pomerelle Wine Co.) – the number of wineries has grown from 19 in 1981 to over 650 wineries in 2010.

Last year, Wine Spectator chose its top wine of the year from Washington (Columbia Crest Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2005) and Wine Enthusiast gave an 100-point score to a Washington state wine (Charles Smith Royal City Syrah 2006). It marks only the beginning of what is sure to be extraordinary praise (which has also been seen in recent Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate and Stephen Tanzer’s International Wine Cellar issues as well).

Definitely check out more on Washington State wines by visiting the Washington Wine Commission, or check out Washington wine blogs from Paul Gregutt, The Walla Walla Wine Woman, Drink Nectar, The Wine Peeps and the Washington Wine Report, to name a few. You can also ask your local retailers what they have from Washington State and take home a bottle or two and find out more about the great stuff Washington wineries have to offer. Some of my favorites are from Bookwalter, Airfield Estates, Buty, Mercer Estates, Terra Blanca, L’Ecole No. 41, and Cadence, but there are a lot of great wines out there.

Tomorrow, I’ll reminisce about Walla Walla over some samples I received from L’Ecole.

9Jun/106

STANDING UP FOR THE EVERGREEN STATE

I was talking to one of my sales reps the other day about trying to get more Washington State wineries into our market, and was met with a response I should’ve expected but didn’t. Washington’s a tough sell, he said, a lot of expensive wines. Really, I thought? Not in my stores. Granted, the Washington Wine Commission stroked my ego and wined-me-and-dined me back in October, yet I saw firsthand how phenomenal and VALUE-ORIENTED the Washington wine industry is.

And I am not just referring to Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia Crest and Hogue Cellars (the big three of the state’s blossoming wine business – two really, since CSM and CC are the same company). Wines like Bookwalter Subplot, Novelty Hill Cabernet Sauvignon, Airfield Estates Bombshell Red, Steak House Cabernet Sauvignon, Hedges CMS Red, the Rieslings of Pacific Rim, Barnard Griffin Fume Blanc and Riesling, Substance Merlot, Buty Semillon-Sauvignon, Sleight of Hand The Spellbinder, L’Ecole No. 41 Semillion, Dusted Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, Bergevin Lane Calico Red, Gordon Brothers Syrah, Three Rivers Red, Brian Carter Abracadabra, Maryhill Zinfandel, Mercer Estates Chardonnay, Syncline Rose, Tamarack Firehouse Red, Waterbrook Melange, and Terra Blanca Sauvignon Blanc are just some of the amazing values that Washington State is producing.

I’ve actually entertained the idea of becoming a broker for Washington State, yet that takes money, and last time I checked, my nickname was M.C. Broke as F%$#. So that sort of puts the kibosh on that idea.

Anyway, in our stores, we’ve actually increased the sale of Washington State wines dramatically, simply with generating a little buzz within the stores, putting the wines on our tasting tables, and otherwise, convincing customers that Washington is a safe bet to wager. Our #2 selling wine (and #1 selling red) has been Columbia Crest Two Vines Vineyard 10 Red for well over a year, and with the addition of Airfield Estates and Terra Blanca – wines I browbeat our distributor into bringing in – have been performing well, and customers are coming back for more. My Top 40 (which became a Top 50 this year) was capped at #1 with Bookwalter The Protagonist, one of a number of incredible red blends that I'd put in league with any classified growth Bordeaux or cult-status Napa Valley wine, at at least half the price of those wines. I am managing to convert a lot of die-hard Napaphiles into Washington State believers, so I know it doesn't take much to change perceptions - the proof is in the bottle.

My wish list for more Washington State wine is pretty long, and with some persistence (which can borderline on annoyance I am told) on my part, it will get done soon enough.

And I am not alone in this revelation. The critics are and have been on board with the concept for some time. Check out Issue 185 of Parker’s Wine Advocate, or just look at the 2009 Top 100 lists from Wine Spectator and Wine Enthusiast. Impressive reviews which have all been much-deserved and long-overdue, I am confident you too will find some new favorites from this up-and-coming region.

If you happen to be a Washington state producer, I’d love to hear from you. And if you love Washington state wines as much as I do, tell your retailer. Let them know you want to see more of them on the shelves.

1May/100

CONFLICT’D

Last year, perhaps around August or September was when my RNDC/Cumberland sales rep informed me that they were picking up Bookwalter wines from Washington state. I was a huge fan of Bookwalter many moons ago, yet here in Kentucky, there was a leviathan retailer downstate that had swallowed up all the cool Washington state wines and we in Northern KY were unable to acquire them (or hardly anyone else aside from Hogue and Ste. Michelle). Well that fact was all in the past, and soon, John Bookwalter was in our store pouring his bad-ass selections, including the Subplot NV, the Foreshadow Cabernet Sauvignon 2006, Foreshadow Merlot 2006, and Protagonist 2006 (which I would name my #1 Wine of 2009 later on).

John was also instrumental in helping me get on the Washington Wine Road Trip, which opened my eyes even further to all the incredible Washington State wines that we weren’t able to get and sell – YET. Wines from Owen Roe, Sparkman, Buty, Bunnell, McCrea, Walla Walla Vintners, Cote Bonneville – the list went on and on.

But I am not going to rehash my massive love affair with Washington Wines, or my indebtedness to John Bookwalter. No, I want to talk to you about one of his new wines, the Bookwalter Conflict Conner-Lee Vineyard 2007 – an absolutely remarkable red blend that I think ranks amongst America’s best wines right now.

This is the very first vintage of this single-vineyard beauty, and we were privileged to get a sample bottle a few months back. Opening it with the staff, it was almost like we sneaked a peek into the vaults of Fort Knox, or caught a glimpse of Angelina Jolie’s knickers (while she was wearing ‘em).

Obviously, this dark, brooding monster was young, needing ample time in the bottle to mellow and mature, yet the components were all still present, still resounding, still glorious.

Comprised primarily of Conner-Lee vineyard fruit (91%), the remainder of the blend was derived from fruit from the McKinley Springs vineyard in Horse Heaven Hills and the Ciel du Cheval vineyard in Red Mountain. You could argue this as being something akin to Chateau Petrus, with its predominant Merlot component (66%), finishing up the blend with Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.

The wine was aged for twenty months in both new and once-used French oak barrels, and the resulting wine shows off a dark ruby/purple color, almost opaque, with aromas of perfumed blackberry and black currants rising out of the glass. The black fruits continue on the palate, displaying their jammy, juicy, rich complexity integrated with a mélange of mocha, espresso bean, black truffle, anise, cedar, tobacco smoke, dusty earth, peat, milk chocolate, vanilla bean, and toasted oak. My grade: AMAZING!

I would have to say I am a true disciple of Bookwalter wines, as well as the wines of Washington state, and I look forward to John and the folks at Bookwalter continuing the path they have set out on with this Conflict.

3Mar/104

A NEW DISCOVERY

Good friend and regular customer Rosco, has been telling me about this Napa producer R&B Cellars for some time. Rosco has been coming to our store for awhile now, and he’s pretty passionate about wine, particularly Napa Valley. He likes the big, bold powerhouse reds and is particularly enamored with notables like Joseph Phelps Insignia and Silver Oak Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. Yet this R&B Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon has always been something of a comparative.

Recently, Rosco swapped me a bottle of the 2003 R&B Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve for a bottle of my favorite – the Bookwalter Protagonist 2006. I’ve been working on converting him to being a Washington State wine fan, and the swap was all part of my master plan. Yet I was pretty excited about taking this R&B Cellars home and finding out what Rosco was so sold on, admittedly knowing nothing about this producer.

R&B Cellars is a small production winery that began in 1997 (with a beginning production of 230 cases) that has since expanded to over 12,000. Founded by jazz musicians Kevin and Barbara Brown, their passion for music has organically manifested in their passion for wine, as is evident in this bottle.

Now most of you who know me or read this blog know that I am not a really big fan of Napa wines. While there are some producers I enjoy, overall I gravitate toward a more old-world style of wines, which is not saying Napa is bad; it’s just my opinion. Yet I was impressed by the dark red/purple color of this monster red. Pouring it in the glass, it really saturated the crystal, leaving an indelible stain that was most certainly a sign of things to come.

Smelling the wine delivered notes of black currant, anise, mocha and cedar smoke. There was a hint of black tea that I for some weird reason associate with aged wine – don’t ask me why I smell that in aged wine, I just do. On the palate, black cherries, black currant and blackberry notes are intermingled with mocha, black pepper, cinnamon, vanilla, truffle and creamy oak. It finishes long and lush, and knowing the background of the winery founders, I found myself thinking of one of my favorite jazz albums, Miles Davis’ “Kind of Blue,” and how that has stayed with me for most of my life. I won’t be grandiose and say this wine was that kind of moment, but it is a really good wine that I wish I could get in this area and sell to more customers.

I have to thank Rosco for clueing me in on this producer and perhaps now, I will have to find a distributor for these guys here in Kentucky.

Tagged as: bookwalter, Joseph Phelps, R&B Cellars, Rosco, Silver Oak, wine review 4 Comments

25Jan/101

WASHINGTON STATE, SEEMS IT HAS BEEN TOO LONG

So over the weekend I was feeling pretty blue, since the skies were a murky gray, and there was just a lot of cold rain coming down. While my favorite team got their first shot at a Super Bowl, yesterday (Saints! Who Dat!) I was still feeling pretty crappy. I’ve been in sort of a funk with regards to my job – call it Post-Holiday Burnout, I guess – and I found myself thinking about my trip out to Washington last Fall. Strange how I opened up my email and found a reminder from the Open Wine Consortium about the upcoming American Wine Bloggers Conference being held this year in, you guessed it, Washington State – Walla Walla to be exact.

I’ve been a big proponent of Washington State wines ever since I got back from the trip, and it definitely showed in our top sellers for last year – three of our top 20 were from WA (Columbia Crest Two Vines Vineyard 10 Red, Chateau Ste. Michelle Chardonnay and Milbrandt Vineyard Legacy Chardonnay). I even named several to my annual K2’s Top 40 Wines, including the #1 from good friend John Bookwalter, the Protagonist. The accolades that WA wines received from all the critics after I got back drove the point home to my boss, who is seriously motivated by “points.” (Yeah I know, I know).

And I have been laboring behind the scenes to bring more Washington wines into our market, with wines from Airfield Estates and Terra Blanca already en route. We’ve gotten on board with the Riesling kings at Pacific Rim, rediscovered Columbia Winery (not to be confused with Columbia Crest), Hedges, Woodward Canyon, Spring Valley, Long Shadows and L’Ecole No.41 wines. There is a lot more out there, and I hope to add more by year’s end.

I recently commented on a post that I thought Washington State Merlots were the best in the world. Obviously I caught heck for that one, but what I “meant” to say was that they are the best for the money – considering Merlots from Chateaux Le Pin and Petrus, as well as Ornellaia’s Masseto are really the best but in the three digit price range (which is definitely out of us normal consumers’ league).

I am looking forward to getting back out there. I hope to stop in and visit some of the places I missed on my trip such as Col Solare, Barnard Griffin, Beresan and Walla Walla Vintners just to name a few. I also hope to revisit places like Dusted Valley and Bergevin Lane while out there.

It is odd that I connected with the Columbia Valley like I did. I had that feeling my first trip to Sonoma, but it wasn’t nearly as intense. True enough, I was surrounded by my peers and we saw the best of the best out there, yet I could have sat atop the Red Willow Vineyards for days and I would have been just as content, or stared out over the Snake River from the back of Gordon Brothers estate. It is the peace and tranquility I got from there that I am really thinking about today.

Just a few more months and I’ll be back there. That’s what I am thinking right now.

Tagged as: airfield estates, bookwalter, chateau ste. michelle, columbia crest, hedges, terra blanca, washington, wbc 2010, woodward canyon 1 Comment

2Dec/095

K2′S TOP 40 FOR 2009

I find it a bit fascinating to compile a list of my top selections because as a retail wine buyer, I am automatically jaded right? And while I do lean heavily toward certain producers, importers, distributors, etc. – for this list, I am not relying on my retailer point-of-view, but my personal one. And there is a difference, or at least, there has to be a difference.

I often tell my customers that if it were up to me personally, the store would be almost certainly, nothing except for Italian wine. I am a huge Italian wine fanatic. So when it comes to buying for the store, I have to be aware of what audience a particular wine would have – would customers buy it? And these aren’t necessarily ones I have reviewed either. No these 40 wines are ones that have come across my palate this year, and have stood out, towering high above the rest.

So without any more time-wasting, here are my top 40 picks for this year (in reverse order):

40. Sequoia Grove Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2005. I am not usually one to choose a Napa Cab but I was truly impressed by both its power and grace on the palate. This wine is a real hit, proving great Napa Cab doesn’t have to cost you three-digits.

39. Seghesio Zinfandel Sonoma County 2008. Once again, Seghesio scores with their value-priced Zin. A cooler 2008 climate gives you a less bombastic, more food-compatible red, yet still in possession of exemplary Zin character.

38. Roberto Anselmi Capitel Croce 2005. Having been a fan of Anselmi for years, my first opportunity in some time to taste this flagship white wine – 100% Garganega from Veneto – is a revelation for white wine enthusiasts and everyone else.

37. Sparkman Chardonnay “Lumiere” Columbia Valley 2007. Introducing one of the many wines on this list from my Washington trip. Winemaker Chris Sparkman is urging me to bring his wines to our area, and hopefully, sometime mid-2010, you will know how great these wines are. While known for reds, this amazing Chardonnay was well-balanced and reminiscent of a Puligny-Montrachet.

36. DeLille Cellars D2 Columbia Valley 2006. Another in a host of great wines from Washington State, the D2 2006 was one of several we finished up with on our Washington Wine Road Trip. Host/WWC Commissioner Jay Soloff had all their wines opened, yet this well-structured red Bordeaux blend stood out for me.

35. Milbrandt Vineyards Legacy Syrah 2005. Despite the unfortunate use of the word “Legacy” – they were slapped with a “cease and desist” by none other than Jess Jackson over its use – this is one incredible Syrah, particularly due to it being half-price in our store right now. Poured it at a recent tasting, and hooked a lot of folks into its charms as well.

34. Buty Semillon/Sauvignon/Muscadelle Columbia Valley 2008. An incredible white Bordeaux blend I was fortunate enough to try while out in Walla Walla. Winemaker Caleb Foster is a rising star on the West Coast, and with any luck, you will all soon know it too.

33. Feudi di San Gregorio Patrimo 2005. Here is an unbelievably extraordinary Merlot from the Campania region in Italy. It has power, elegance, concentration, depth and finesse, all rolled into one beautiful red, equal to that of Petrus or Le Pin. Absolutely glorious!

32. St. Helena Winery Seduire Napa Valley 2005. I tried this with our former Fort Thomas store manager Ray Burwick (now our rep for the Crown Division of Southern Wine & Spirits) and another former DEPS alum (and our sales rep for Tramonte & Sons) Devon Ward. It was one of those moments where none of us need say a word. Just looking at each other’s faces was recognition enough that this was a truly decadent and beautiful wine. A stunning effort in a Bordeaux-style blend from a family winery in Napa Valley.

31. Domaine de Nizas Coteaux du Languedoc Rouge 2005. I don’t think I could make a list of my favorites without once again, incorporating one of my all-time favorite reds. This G/S/M blend from the folks behind Napa’s Clos du Val, time and again, create this sheer powerhouse, a wine a love recommending because for all its heft and density, it still costs less than $20.

30. Piandibugnano Nanerone IGT 2007. A new discovery from new friend Terence Hughes, and his import company Domenico Selections, this gorgeous, playful dessert wine – 100% Aleatico – is a sweet red wine begging for those intimate, flirtatious evenings with the one you love. It’s sexy, soulful, and alluring.

29. Chateau Ste. Michelle Ethos Cabernet Sauvignon 2005. I tasted this at a dinner held at Chateau Ste. Michelle, and heard the explanation for its inception – whilst the winemaker creates many single-vineyard wines, this beautiful Cab is a creation of the winemaker himself – an expression of his mind, soul and palette. It is a remarkable effort.

28. Jean-Luc Colombo Cornas La Louvee 2005. 100% Syrah from Northern Rhone. This is Syrah as it is truly meant to be – dark, voluptuous, and smoky, with a finish that lingers almost eternally. I truly believe Monsieur Colombo is an unsung master of this grape.

27. Some Young Punks The Squid’s Fist South Australia 2007. Something crazy about the 20,000 Leagues Under The Sea meets Ed Wood label, but this Sangiovese-Shiraz blend was an amazing discovery. A big, bold, jammy red from Down Under that didn’t have to punch you in the face with its exuberance, it teased you with it, and before you knew it, you were hooked.

26. Santa Rita Carmenere Pehuen 2005. This dazzling blend of 85% Carmenere and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon was an awesome red wine – and really was the catalyst for me changing my tune on Santa Rita on the whole. Big, bold, yet possessing some velvety smooth tannins, this red is what most of Chile aspires to be – f-ing delicious!

25. Belguardo Serrata Maremma 2005. One of the two Mazzei family projects on this list, the Serrata is a stylish, vibrant blend of Sangiovese and Alicante Bouschet. The Alicante portion of this wine gives it sass, and an almost jammy, brambly Zin character to an otherwise-straightforward Tuscan-style red.

24. Barnard Griffin Sagemoor Partners Reserve Columbia Valley 2007. One of the real treats I partook of in WA., this stunning Cab-based blend from a cooperative of vineyards, released only through Barnard Griffin’s tasting room, is absolutely phenomenal. There was just loads of juicy dark fruit flavors and aromas, and even though the 2004 and 2005 vintages of this wine that I tasted were drinking a bit better, coming from the amazing 2007 vintage, this wine showed infinitely more promise.

23. Mulderbosch Rose of Cabernet Sauvignon Stellenbosch 2008. I am always amazed by this wine but couldn’t have been happier with the 2008 release. Always a huge fan of dry pink wines, this is another one of my consistent go-to wines for customers, and one I love to take home whenever possible.

22. Domaine Fontsainte Corbieres 2007. Another hidden gem in the Kermit Lynch portfolio, this delicious red blend of Carignan, Grenache and Syrah is one of Fontsainte’s finest releases to date. Subtle notes of blue and black berry fruit hit you first in the nose, then across the palate. Though slightly ru
stic, a bit of time opened reveals a plushness sure to please anyone.

21. Pascual Toso Malbec Reserve 2007. Pascual Toso is one of the most consistent names for value in Argentine wine, and their Reserve Malbec gives you plum, blackberry, clove and creamy vanilla tones to make for a rich and extremely enjoyable taste of Mendoza.

20. Barrister Cabernet Franc Columbia Valley 2006. Another great wine from my WA Wine Trip, Barrister is heralded as the premier WA state producer of Cab Franc – my favorite Bordeaux grape. You get all the great characters of Cab Franc and none of the bad. This is just sheer red wine drinking pleasure.

19. Bodegas Godeval Vina Godeval 2007. One of my favorite white wines, made from the Godello grape, this hidden gem from importer Jorge Ordonez is round yet possessing nicely balanced acidity. If you are tired of all that Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio, and you want to try something new and REALLY good, give this one a go.

18. Bodegas Almirez Toro 2007. Having lost the Numanthia wines out of his portfolio, importer Jorge Ordonez found a new and remarkably talented producer from the Toro in Bodegas Almirez. This red made from 100% Tinto de Toro (a Tempranillo clone), is rich, dense and possessing a lot of power.

17. La Spinetta Barbera d’Asti Ca’di Pian 2006. One of my favorite producers from the Piedmont, the affordable Ca’di Pian is 100% Barbera, rich and luscious, with the red fruit and spice character you come to expect in a classic Barbera.

16. Spring Valley Frederick Walla Walla 2006. My first vineyard walk in Washington was at Spring Valley, and it was a sheer marvel to see the gorgeous countryside that is the source for this amazing red blend. While the Uriah dons our shelves, the hard-to-get Frederick is more powerful than its sibling, showing much more prowess and potential.

15. Chateau La Vieille Cure Fronsac 2006. Bordeaux and Value are two terms that don’t seem to go together very well, yet this delicious Merlot-based red from the Right Bank is a remarkable find.

14. Yering Station Shiraz/Viognier Yarra Valley 2006. I have grown wary of Australia in recent years, because all that bombast just turns me off anymore. Yet here is a Northern Rhone-influenced red that shows tremendous elegance and finesse.

13. Selene Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2005. I have often said that Mia Klein is my Eric Clapton, and once you try this Napa Valley Cab, you’ll understand why. She is like Cate Blanchett’s Galadriel in Lord of the Rings, an elvish queen bestowing her magic on already amazing Napa fruit. In her presence, and in the presence of this wine, I am forever in awe.

12. Bunnell Family Mourvedre Northridge Vineyards 2007. A wine I encountered unexpectedly in Washington state – I am a big sucker for Mourvedre, and this one had me dumbstruck for at least a half-an-hour. Everything I love about French Mourvedre from Bandol – it was right there in that glass of Bunnell. Just breathtaking.

11. Pacific Rim Riesling Organic Grapes 2008. Yes I love Riesling. Yes even sweet Riesling. I think Riesling is the best white grape, and one of the best grapes overall. This Riesling, made from organically grown grapes (for whatever good that may be), is a herculean effort at crafting a Mosel-influenced white wine right in the heart of the Yakima Valley.

10. Gordon Brothers Columbia Valley Syrah 2005. I would hazard to say that this is the best f-ing Syrah from the U.S. for under $30 you will ever find. Period.

9. Zisola Doppiozeta 2006. Another hidden gem I was able to find at the Palm Bay show in Chicago this year, this remarkable red from Sicily is the other Mazzei family venture I was alluding to earlier. A blend of the native Nero d’Avola, along with Syrah and Cabernet Franc, this sultry red is silky smooth, sexy and dark in the glass. It leaves a sensuous stain on the palate that just won’t go away. And you won’t be complaining about it either.

8. Champalou Vouvray Cuvee des Fondraux 2007. Another great treasure from the Kermit Lynch portfolio, this seductive Chenin Blanc is remarkably full-bodied, only slightly sweet from its pronounced fruit flavors, and charms you to your very core.

7. Musto-Carmelitano Serra del Prete 2007. Another amazing discovery from Domenico Selections, this exceptional red wine from the Basilicata region of Italy (comprised entirely of the Aglianico grape) shows incredible earthen qualities with a supple texture of tannins that would almost fool you into thinking it has “new world” origins. Almost. Yet this wine is undeniably Italian. And that is the biggest reason why I dig it.

6. L'Ecole No. 41 Apogee Pepper Bridge Vineyard 2006. Yes, more Washington State. This exceptional red Bordeaux-blend has always been remarkable, with the 2006 continuing its phenomenal run. Loads of power and grace - I am simply amazed each time I try it.

5. Paolo Scavino Barolo 2004. The “value” Barolo from this superstar of the Piedmont, we recently showed this wine at our in-store holiday show. Though extremely young, it shows tremendous promise, and even now, displays smoothed-out tannins, intense fruit complexity and a remarkable propensity for age.

4. Cote Bonneville DuBrul Vineyard 2004. Winemaker Kerry Shiels has one of those intoxicating smiles that always begs the question, “what is she up to?” I almost didn’t get to meet her, or try her wines because she arrived to the tasting a bit late in the evening. But it was worth the delay. This otherworldly red Bordeaux blend is almost beyond words. Describing it as delicious, incredible, amazing – those terms just cannot do the wine true justice. The DuBrul Vineyard is a fairly new vineyard source that I have no doubt you will come to know like you do Stagecoach or Beckstoffer from Napa, Cannubi from the Piedmont, or Richebourg in Burgundy. And this wine, almost inconceivably extraordinary (even that doesn’t quite get it).

3. Long Shadows Vintners Pedestal 2006. I love this wine. I had before my trip to Washington State. Yet after meeting winemaker Gilles Nicault from the winery, I was even more impressed with this wine. The effort of Gilles and famed enologist Michel Rolland, this Merlot is a Columbia Valley expression of the Pomerols of Petrus and Le Pin.

2. Papapietro Perry Pinot Noir Russian River Valley 2007. How can these guys, year-after-year, create Pinot Noirs that are every bit as massive as a Napa Cab WITHOUT sacrificing the inherent grace and delicacy of the Pinot Noir grape. Think it can’t be done. You haven’t tried Papapietro Perry.

1. Bookwalter The Protagonist 2006. Not because with winemaker John Bookwalter’s help did I get in on this year’s Washington Wine Road Trip, but because this wine is just that good did I put this one at the top. At long last, I am able to sell Bookwalter in Kentucky, and in finding a kindred spirit in all things writing, have I found the perfect wine for my poetry.

Please keep in mind, these are wines that I ENJOYED this year, and even though I enjoyed A LOT of wine this year, these were my standouts. There were many honorable mentions – really too many TO MENTION. Yet here it is, my Top 40 countdown. (BTW, why do I call it a Top 40 countdown? For those not already clued in on the whole music tie-in, Kase
y Kasem/Kevin Keith – we are both K2s.)

1Dec/090

GOING OUT WITH A BANG

Last weekend, we finished off the 2009 D.E.P.’s Fine Wine & Spirits Tasting Schedule with what we affectionately like to call our Holiday Show. It’s a two-part event that we’ve been quietly doing for the past 4 years. Part one is always at our Covington Store on Friday night, and repeated Saturday at our Fort Thomas location, while part two takes place at Fort Thomas Friday and reversed at Covington for Saturday.

Usually, we toss in some extra-nice sparkling wines and dessert wines, yet this year, we opted to focus on all table wines, though none of them were what you would call “value.” No, for this tasting, we focus on the stuff we wouldn’t normally get to try our customers, opting for a great deal of higher-end and extremely limited wines. As always, these tastings weren’t about highlighting a particular style of wine, grape variety or wine region – these tastings were simply a thank you to all of our customers for all of their patronage this past year.

The line-up was as follows:

Friday at Covington: Illumination Sauvignon Blanc 2008, Chateau Montelena Chardonnay 2007, Saintsbury Pinot Noir Cerise Vineyard 2006, Domaine Tempier Bandol 2006 and Silver Oak Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2003. Saturday: Muller-Catoir Riesling Kabinett Trocken 2007, Domaine de la Charbonniere Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee des Perdrix 2005, Charles Joguet Chinon Chene Vert 2007 and Bookwalter The Protagonist 2006.

Friday at Fort Thomas: Muller-Catoir Riesling Kabinett Trocken 2007, Domaine de la Charbonniere Chateauneuf-du-Pape Cuvee des Perdrix 2005, Charles Joguet Chinon Chene Vert 2007 and Bodegas Norton Perdriel 2003. Saturday: Illumination Sauvignon Blanc 2008, Chateau Montelena Chardonnay 2007, Saintsbury Pinot Noir Cerise Vineyard 2006, Domaine Tempier Bandol 2006 and Chateau Senejac Haut-Medoc 2005.

Overall, the wines should very well, and it was a nice follow-up to a fairly chaotic Thanksgiving Day week. I would have to say my personal faves were the Charbonniere, Charles Joguet and Muller-Catoir, but it is not an easy thing for me to choose a favorite – the wines on our shelves are all my babies, and it is impossible and just plain wrong to choose a favorite child. (And in case you didn't notice, we slid in a few different wines, with each store concluding with a different big boy, just an extra treat.)

I want to thank all of our customers for coming by on their holiday weekend and sharing in these wines. For those of you that missed it, I would highly recommend seeking out these beauties to try for yourself sometime. They are all seriously worth it.

Tagged as: Holiday Show, wine tastings No Comments

19Oct/090

WINE & MUSIC: THE CURE AND BOOKWALTER

I have been having a helluva time re-acclimating myself to Midwest time – just 5 days on the west coast and I am wrecked. I’ve been processing a lot of different ideas, notions, vibes, etc. and one of the things that I have been doing to readjust to my surroundings is listening to some old The Cure. Yeah, call me crazy but that shrill-melancholy vocal styling of Robert Smith is just what I need to get my morose-mojo back.

I wasn’t into them when they first came out back in the ‘80’s. I really didn’t show up for the party until the early-‘90’s, when a friend of mine played “Disintegration” for me. The song “Fascination Street” is still one of my all-time favorites. Check it out here:

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DcL5aaPjWn0&hl=en&fs=1&]

Still thinking about the wines of Washington State, one that has been great to drink, in remembering all that was phenomenal about the trip, is the Bookwalter Subplot NV No. 23, a smooth, lush blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, and even Barbera, that is full of plush, velvety notes of red, blue and black fruit flavors, aromas of spice and berries, and a long-lingering finish that will forever conjure a night beneath the Pacific Northwestern skies, at the foot of the Cascades, nestled comfortably in the bosom of Mother Earth.

The Cure and Bookwalter – an odd combination, yet one that works the magic back into the strange world we fumble around in.

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16Oct/090

WASHINGTON WINE ROAD TRIP, DAY THREE: HERE COMES THE WOODPECKER

Tuesday (October 6) was somewhat muted chance to be more sightseer than frantic participant in the Road Trip. A 7 a.m. wake up call found us taking in a slower-paced breakfast before climbing aboard “Truckin’” for our vineyard exercise, today being held at Goose Ridge.

Goose RidgeVineyard is found in Richland, Washington, and is considered the largest contiguous vineyard site in the entire state, encompassing over 1400 acres (which comparatively speaking, the entire Red Mountain AVA is less than 1100 acres). Goose Ridge provides fruit to several large wineries, including Chateau Ste. Michelle, the leader in the Washington Wine industry.

We got another lesson in canopy management, and got to take a bird’s-eye view of a mechanical harvester picking Merlot (very cool, but don’t try this at home). Goose Ridge makes wine under its own label, yet only uses about 20% of its fruit for its own purposes. It is a very large operation, and I had renewed interest in their wines (look for their Merlot and G3 in our stores soon).

We ventured to the restaurant Anthony’s on the River for a luncheon hosted by Gordon Brothers owner Jeff Gordon (no relation), and from there, my small group went to our winery exercise at Gordon Brothers, with winemaker Tim Henley. Instead of the usual stuff, Tim opted to let us try some 2009 Merlot, still in tank, and after trying examples of wines aged in various oak barrels, asked us our opinions on what type of oak to use on his newest juice.

Returning to the hotel, we got a small break before heading off to Precept Brands’ Canyon Ranch vineyard site, where we would meet up with various Columbia Valley winemakers for a regional tasting and a homespun barbeque, under the stars.

I found a lot of amazing wines at this tasting, like Bunnell Family’s Mourvedre, which was every bit a Bandol, and the wines of Airfield Estates (really amazing values), Owen Roe (please come to KY, y’all), the Barnard Griffin Shiraz Port (coming soon), and the wines of Terra Blanca and Cote Bonneville. I visited John Bookwalter, whom I met just prior to the trip, and tasted through his outstanding reds again (The Protagonist rules!). At dinner, we were joined by winemaker Kerry Shiels of Cote Bonneville and National Sales Manager Leo Kirk of Kestrel (terrific wines too, by the way.

We also discovered the playhouse that sat adjacent to the dinner – a renovated barn equipped with a bar, a pool table, air hockey table, and other leisurely sundries that made the night complete. My fellow roadtrippers were kids in a candy store, and the camaraderie was at a phenomenal level.

Next stop, Yakima Valley!

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12Oct/090

WINE & MUSIC: WASHINGTON WINE ROAD TRIP, THE SCORE

Last week, I had the privilege of attending the 2009 Washington Wine Road Trip, orchestrated by the folks at the Washington Wine Commission, and illuminated by such wineries as L’Ecole No. 41, Chateau Ste. Michelle, Columbia, Abeja, Bunnell Family, Bookwalter, DeLille Cellars, and nearly 75 more. Wine Buyers and Sommeliers from all over the country were along for the ride, on buses called “Free Bird”, “Truckin’”, “Low Rider” and “Born To Run”. 40 attendees in total, from Vermont, New York, Atlanta, Chicago, Las Vegas, San Francisco – it was truly a national group.

WWC Education Director Shayn Bjornholm and his team of Washington oenophiles led us from Seattle, to Walla Walla, to Yakima and Woodinville, highlighting a comparatively young wine industry that in my mind, is far and away superior to California in terms of variety, value and exuberance. And in meshing great wines and scenery, they even provided a great classic-rock-tinged soundtrack for the drunken choreographic aspect of our trip. Songs such as “Free Bird”, “Life is a Highway” and “Takin’ it To The Streets” served as backdrop for a 4 day excursion through vineyards and mountainscapes. I only wish they would have put on the greatest road trip wake up song in Deep Purple’s “Highway Star”. Check it out:

[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KgZSnAkQc4c&hl=en&fs=1&]

Over the course of this week, I will highlight some of the wonderful stops and some of the great wines we were able to taste and witness being made during harvest. Washington wines deserve to be included in the amphitheater of great wines from places such as Bordeaux, California, Burgundy, Germany, and the Rhone, and hopefully, after this week, you’ll have some idea of why.

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