This past Monday was a rare night out for the Deuce, as I was invited to join Mistress Lauren of Cutting Edge Selections for a dinner with Victoria Ordóñez Martí-Aguilar, the GM of Jorge Ordonez & Co. and brand manager for Jorge Ordonez Selections. The restaurant was a fairly new but undeniably incredible place called Local 127 in Downtown Cincinnati. I am not one to go out much these days, so it was a bit of a big deal for my recluse ass to show up for a gig like this (most people wouldn’t hesitate to go to something like this) so I made sure I was amped up on java to meet Senora Ordóñez and the crew of one of my favorite distributors.
I hadn’t been to Local 127 before, but many of my customers have had nothing but huge praise for the place, run by Chef Steven Geddes – who just so happens to also be a Master Sommelier – prides itself on American cuisine featuring the best local ingredients, and I have to tell you, they were the perfect backdrop for this evening.
Mistress Lauren, along with her cohorts Joe and T.J. (not to be confused with our own DJ TJ here at DEP’s) were there along with Dave Schmerr (Wine and Beer Director for Jungle Jim’s) and his wife, and Sommelier Charlie Redmond, Maitre’d at Orchids at Palm Court (I found out his mom and my mom both work at Dorothy Lane Market in Centerville – small world, right?). Joe had lined up a baker’s dozen of wines from the Ordóñez portfolio, many big favorites of yours truly (and our store), and Victoria graciously explained the many aspects of the wines, a great deal of which I had no clue.
For starters, the first wine of the night – the Botani Moscatel Seco 2009 (Grade=Outstanding) – was co-created by Victoria’s brother Jorge and the late Alois Kracher of Austria, one of Europe’s greatest winemakers. This beautifully made, bright citrusy white is an elegant first act, whether served as an aperitif, or paired nicely with the pickled and smoked appetizers we started off with (including the smoked golden trout and the pork terrine).
We then tried two more terrific white wines – the La Cana Albariño Rias Biaxas 2010 (Grade=Outstanding) and the Avanthia Godello Valdeorras 2008 (Grade=Amazing). Both of these wines were remarkable in their varietal correctness, with the La Cana yielding very creamy citrus and kiwi notes without the benefit of new oak, and the Avanthia, a wine produced in partnership with Bodegas Godeval, is almost reminiscent of a premier cru white Burgundy with its stunning minerality, roasted apple and lemon tart notes.
Conversation drifted back and forth, as they do with wine dinners like these, between the business at hand (the wines, the food) into movies – Victoria spoke highly of The Artist, and revealed another brother is a Spanish film and TV actor – books, which I in a meek-yet-boastful way, declared myself a published poet, while Dave’s wife spoke of her sister’s voracious reading appetite, to Mistress Lauren finally losing her Star Wars V-card, seeing Episodes IV, V and VI for the first time only recently (I feel so old now). Which led us whimsically into the reds, beginning with the Volver Tempranillo La Mancha 2009 (Grade=Outstanding), a gorgeous, medium-to-full-bodied red, all from single-vineyard tempranillo fruit, displaying amazing cherry, mocha and earth notes. The waitstaff poured the Volver side-by-side with the Tarima Hill Monastrell Alicante 2009 (Grade=Outstanding+) – which if I am not mistaken, is the newer version of the Tarima Monastrell Jumilla I still have in stock at the store. One of my favorite reds from Spain right now, this medium-bodied red shows off zesty blueberry, loganberry and black cherry fruit, loads of brown spices, and even a touch of blood orange. It really packs a punch at the finish too, with bursts of black pepper and red currant.
What follows next is that casual descent into gastronomical decadence that can only be the result of great food, great company and delicious wine. I ordered the fluke – which in retrospect, tasted eerily like Arctic Char – and the subsequent wines were as follows:
Alto Moncayo Alto Moncayo Campo de Borja 2009. Grade=Amazing. Just released, this 100% Garnacha is just full-on gorgeous with rich, opulent notes of red and black berry fruits, spices, mineral and dried herbs. Lots of power balanced with lots of grace.
Avanthia Mencia Bierzo 2008. Grade=Amazing. I love Mencia. And this one is brooding, decadent and rich on the palate. There is a lot of blue fruited hedonism here, with smoky oak, mocha, vanilla and rich earth tones.
Ramirez de Ganuza Rioja DO 2004. Grade=Outstanding+. This is always a great Rioja, but I think it pales in the presence of these other wines. Finite tannins and rich cherry fruit show off amidst a taut construct of toasted oak, tobacco and light roast coffee beans. It was decanted though I am unsure how long.
Alto Moncayo Aquilon Campo de Borja 2006. Grade=Amazing. This is a bad mutha of a wine; the Sofia Vergara of Garnacha, with sultry body, voluptuous, dense dark plum and black cherry notes, exotic spices, racy acidity and sensuous oak tones. Man, it’s like a torrid love affair, liquefied and served up with a smile.
By this time, I was content to call it a night, but there was much more in store, believe me. The server came out and offered dessert, and the table sighed in a quiet unison as if to say, “if we must.” Chef Steve hit us with a plethora of sweet treats, while Victoria showed off her own wines, the delicious Moscatels of Malaga.
Jorge Ordóñez Seleccion Especial 2007 (375 ml). Grade=Outstanding. This late-harvest Moscatel shows off honeyed orange peel, carmelized apples, a hint of butterscotch and honeyed apricot. A real value in dessert wine.
Jorge Ordóñez # Victoria 2007 (375 ml). Grade=Amazing³. Whoa! This is gorgeous! Beautiful orange blossom, fresh-picked apricot and notes of ambrosia; it’s Sophia Loren in a glass.
Jorge Ordóñez #3 Old Vines 2005 (375 ml). Grade=Amazing. Much darker in color due to much more oak, we are eclipsing the levels of biblically acceptable pleasure with its decadent honeyed peach and apricot notes, white spices, and creamy oak.
Jorge Ordóñez #4 Essencia 2004 (375 ml). Grade=Amazingn. I had to singularly create a whole new level of distinction – infinitely amazing – just for this wine. As if you and your lover have just spent weeks alone on a deserted island, basking beneath the sun in all your bare glories, reveling in a passionate harmony that would make the world blush, bathed in sunlight and unbridled bliss as time and the world stood still… yeah, you get the idea. A perfect crescendo to a perfect gastronomical symphony.
At the end of the evening, I had a better understanding of the Ordóñez family, and their commitment to excellence, as well as finding my new favorite restaurant in town. Thank you Mistress Lauren for a great night. Many thanks to Cutting Edge, Chef Steve and all at Local 127. And a massive thank you to Victoria for great conversation and amazing wines.





















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