commentary wine reviews

CLINE CELLARS AND THE MEANDERING STREAM OF CONSCIOUSNESS: THE DEUCE CAUGHT IN A MINDSTORM, THE DAVID SHOW INTRODUCES THE NEW CLINE GUY, THE WINE BLOG AWARDS AND ASSORTED MENTAL WEIRDNESS

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So the nominees for the 2013 Wine Blog Awards have been announced, and Surprise!  I have once again been slighted.  Yeah, I know, you are just as blown away as I am.  I mean, who can forget all of the wines I reviewed holding up Robert Parker’s picture with one hand, eh?  Or the dozens of unrequited love letters to James Laube?

Anyway, the biggest congrats goes to the ultimate poodle wacker, Hosemaster of Wine, for 5 nominations this year.  And to the host of great writers who were nominated as well, including Joe Roberts (of 1 Wine Dude), Alfonso Cevola (of On the Wine Trail in Italy), Tom Wark (from Fermentation), Sean Sullivan (of Washington Wine Report) and Wine Enthusiast’s Steve Heimoff, congratulations all!

You’d think that after 5 years of doing this, there might be some recognition, but hell, I am just happy that somebody, hell anybody for that matter, is reading my incessant rants and raves.  As I have said a million times before, I do this for me, as a way to keep track of everything I taste, and a way for me to chronicle what goes on in my professional and sometimes, personal life.  Yet I would be lying if I wasn’t a bit disappointed not to be nominated.  I am certain most bloggers in the wine world would agree.  But hey, you’re reading at least, right?  You’ve taken the time to read the often droll, sometimes insightful, yet most often weird syntax my besotted mind hacks up here in cyberspace.  For that, I am truly thankful.  It might even warrant a hug and a kiss if we ever actually meet.

And in another clunky segue, The David Show and new Cline guy Rob Hawk (sounds like an action hero) dropped in with a bagful of awesome.  Cline Cellars, at least for me, is one of the best value brands out there, with pretty much every wine kicking ass and taking names.

Cline Mourvedre Rosé Contra Costa County 2012.  Grade=Outstanding.  A pretty, fruit-driven saigneé, this dry pink wine is light, fruity, with hints of cranberry, red currant and crushed red flowers.  A standout value!

Cline Eighty Two Red California 2010.  Grade=Very Good.  Medium-bodied red, with plush red and blue fruit flavors.  A blend predominantly of Zinfandel and Syrah.

Cline Mourvedre Small Berry 2010.  Grade=Amazing.  This gorgeous, medium-to-full-bodied wine goes down in the books as one of the sexiest California reds we’ve ever tasted.  Just super-sexy blue fruit, spices, exotic flowers and dried herbs.

Cline Zinfandel Ancient Vines 2011.  Grade=Outstanding.  A knockout value!  Medium-bodied, bramble-fruited red with notes of cocoa, boysenberry, cinnamon and black pepper.

Cline Zinfandel Live Oak 2011.  Grade=Outstanding.  A beautifully-crafted single-vineyard Zin, made from the youngest old vines Cline has.  Full-bodied, voluptuous dark fruits with elegance and grace on its long-lingering finish.

Cline Zinfandel Big Break 2010.  Grade=Outstanding+.  Bold, dynamic red, more muscular than its Live Oak sibling, this brooding Zin gives you blackberry, blueberry and huckleberry fruit notes, vanilla, cinnamon and cardamom undertones, and finishing up with a bit of crème de cacao.

It’s funny what actually goes through my mind when tasting.  While I am listening to Rob’s presentation, my Adult ADD runs the gamut of thoughts and worries… my wife, how I am going to write this post, what is my next task at work?  There are movie scenes and magazines, beauty queens and Ovaltine® – gotta keep it rhymin’ right?   I realize that sometimes, if I were to write my thoughts verbatim, it would be like listening to Miles Davis, John Denver, Wu-Tang Clan and Slayer at the same time.  And the capitol of Nebraska is Lincoln.

commentary wine reviews

LADY DIANE VS. #TEAMWINO: MARTIN AND COMPANY’S QUARTET OF WINES FROM ARGENTINA, FRANCE AND ITALY, PLUS NOT ALL IS QUIET ON THE DEUCE’S HOMEFRONT

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In the ongoing saga of my wife’s health care, I find myself feeling as if I were standing on a beach with a broom that possessed only three wisps of straw on its business end, trying fruitlessly to hold back the rushing of the tides.  My wife’s PCP (primary care physician) seemed completely intent on making her feel like a toilet bug each and every time she went to see him.  While her specialists all seem to listen to what she has to say and work with her as a team, on the matters of her health and well-being, she hasn’t had a great track record with PCP (doctors that is, not psychadelics).

And while we are once again searching for a sympathetic sawbones, I am also grappling with my own level of patience and support.  I feel pretty inadequate whenever these issues arise, and I tend to always say the wrong thing, running the entire length and breadth of my feet inside the expanse of my big mouth, reducing her to hysterical tears with obscene consistency.

I wish there was some sort of training manual for this because I tend to be thick as a brick.  It’s not for lack of trying.  I find myself leaping far before I look, and typically the chasm between the right answer and me grows wider and deeper each and every time.

Meanwhile, back at the ranch, Lady Diane dropped in on Irish T, The Colonel and myself, with an interesting quartet of wines to distract me for a bit:

Altas Cumbres Suavignon Blanc Mendoza 2011.  Grade=Very Good.  Crisp, light-bodied white with hints of lemon, lime and white grapefruit.

Humbeto Canale Riesling Patagonia 2012.  Grade=Outstanding.  Like the progeny of an Eden Valley Riesling and something from the Pfalz, this pretty, dry style of Riesling shows off nice notes of lime, green apple skin, mint and crushed stones.

Cozzo Mario “Rosa” Barbera d’Alba DOC 2009.  Grade=Very Good.  Splashy, juicy red fruits, hints of cinnamon and white pepper, and undertones of sagebrush and dried herbs.

Domaine du Grangeon Chatus Ardeche 2010.  Grade=Outstanding+.  This ancient, thought-to-be-extinct red grape from southern France is quite Grenache in personality with spicy red fruit, dried herbs and dusty earth character.  This is a terrific wine, for nerds and neophytes alike.

We also got to check out a wine they (Martin & Co.) were contemplating bringing into their book:

Barbanera Verdicchio de Castello di Jesi 2011.  Grade=Good.  Steely with a bit of petillant aftertones, there is a lot of minerality here, but the fruit must’ve gotten left at the last bus stop.  Wasn’t really impressed.  Perhaps a look at the 2012?

I realize my homefront may seem a bit in shambles, but despite my wife’s health care struggles, we keep hanging in there.  I do my best, but definitely have my man badge on at all times, you know the one ladies, the one that denotes us as being a little slow emotionally.  I work really hard to combat my inner Neanderthal, yet at the most inopportune of times, it rears its ugly head, and it’s a foot sandwich for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

Maybe I will get it right.  Or maybe she will slip some D-Con into my morning coffee.

commentary wine reviews

THE DEUCE GETS METAPHYSICAL: TWO NEW CALIFORNIA BLENDS, AN ODE TO SUPERFICIALITY AND THE SUBURBANITE YARD SALE BLUES

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Planning for a yard sale is much like an exercise in self-flagellation.  I get the whole “one man’s junk is another man’s treasure” sentiment, but when you discover the unintentional hoarding going on under your own roof, it can be emotionally, physically and spiritually draining.  Throw in the typical male procrastination behavioral trait and you automatically give your wife a reason to kill you in your sleep, chop you up like vegetables in the bathtub, and chuck you out to the curb with yesterday’s garbage.

It’s justifiable homicide, really.

So as we recreated Sanford & Sons in our living room over the weekend, and suspended the yard sale activities on the count of rain, and my terminal lackadaisical-ness, we get to stare at our “other man’s treasures” for at least another week.

I guess I can look upon this endeavor more in an earth-conscious way, considering that we are simply recycling our own pursuit of materialism, and take joy in the fact that our excesses of superficiality will be bequeathed to others.

In that regard, Vanguard newgirl Jenn Goosman dropped off two new wines from winemaker Morgan Twain-Peterson’s new venture Shebang!  The entry-level wines from Bedrock Wine Company, these red and white blends are incredible offerings:

Shebang! White North Coast Cuveé II NV.  Grade=Very Good.  Pinot Gris, Sauvignon Blanc, Muscadelle and Semillon, this pretty white wine is fresh with Asian pear, ginger, star anise, nutmeg and white pepper.

Shebang! Red California Sixth Cuveé NV.  Grade=Very Good.   A blend of Zinfandel, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, this medium-bodied red is splashy and spicy with hints of black berry fruits, dried herbs and cracked pepper.

Hopefully, my wife and I will conclude this liquidation of material excess before Summer’s end, and I can exorcise the demon of Procrastination (whose name is Somedael) sooner rather than later.  And quite possibly, the Shebang! Wines will grace the shelves in the weeks to come.  (Cue Ricky Martin…)

commentary wine reviews

BREAKING THE CHAINS AND SLIGHTING THE GRANGE: THE DEUCE WAXES DELIRIOUSLY, MENTIONS A DOWN UNDER WINETASTING DEATHMATCH AND GETS TO A THREESOME FROM ROBERT OATLEY

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Somewhere along the lines, the chains came off…

That’s what has been going through my mind as of late.  I seem to have achieved something of a soul equilibrium I guess (for lack of a better expression).  Things at home are settling down, my wife is feeling a bit more alive, and I am starting to forget that feeling of the Apocalypse lurking somewhere outside my door.  And as for my writing, I am feeling that the need to keep things reined in has been unwarranted, and a simple diary of my on-the-job wine exploits is giving way to its integration with the mess of analog ideas, dreams and flashbacks roiling in my brainpan.

I am finding all this liberating.

As the future unfolds without the looming shadow of Armageddon in front of me, I find the ghosts of my professional past are being vanquished, exorcised, as their power over my mental haunted house grows weak.  I really have to struggle to remember what it was like to work in such a hostile environment, lugging the chains of Mordor around with my fellow orcs in the steamy, molten dungeons of Sauron.  These days, I feel like I live and work in the Shire, and everything is green fields and blue skies.

So much for the LOTR references.

Digressing, I came across an article in which the 2008 Penfolds Grange was pitted against the 2011 Robert Oatley Shiraz in the besotted equivalent of a cage match, and in mentioning it to the staff, their initial reaction was, “What vintage was the Grange?”

The factoid being played up in the article, which was a tasting between Grange, Oatley Shiraz, First Drop Fat of the Land Shiraz and De Bertoli Sacred Hill Shiraz, showed a tie between the first two as determined by four judges (only one of which was an industry professional), and that the Oatley, which clocked in at $17, matched the Grange, which is stickered these days for over $700.

Impressive really.  Yet one could discount the tasting with the mere fact that the 2008 Grange, last year’s release, is not even close to being ready to drink, while the Oatley is softer, more approachable now.  One would argue the tasting should be recreated at 5 years and 10 years from now, to see which one wins then.

Anyway, Brother Lou dropped off samples of the Robert Oatley Shiraz, along with its siblings Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon:

Robert Oatley Chardonnay Margaret River 2012.  Grade=Very Good.  There is something to be said for Margaret River Chardonnay, as this nice, light-bodied Chard, with clean green apple skin, lemon and a touch of vanilla cream.

Robert Oatley Shiraz McLaren Vale 2010.  Grade=Very Good.  Soft and round tannins reveal juicy red fruit, touches of blueberry, huckleberry and sassafrass.  Medium-bodied and generous through the finish.

Robert Oatley Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River 2011.  Grade=Very Good.  Full-bodied red, showing off blackberry, dark plum, spice and mint.  A juicy, giving Cab ideal for everyday.

wine reviews

THE POLITICS OF WINE GEEKDOM: THE DEUCE CONTEMPLATES THE DUALITY OF WINE AND CONSUMERISM WITH LADY LINDA AND A TRIO FROM DAOU VINEYARDS

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I’ve always mused about how complicated we winos tend to make the wine business.  For all intensive purposes, wine is just fermented grape juice.  Sure, there are thousands of grapes used to make wine, and wine is produced all around the world, with multiple techniques, changes in vintages, etc., etc., and all these factors make different wines.  For when you boil it down to basics, it’s fermented grape juice.

So why do we, as an industry, tend to build up such an overwhelming mythos that normal, everyday consumers are still reluctant to approach wine, especially when the beer industry has been much more amenable.

Now before everyone gets in a snit, I am not all-of-a-sudden an advocate for completely homogenizing wine and turning it into a straight up commodity with no personality and no complexity (I think that is already being done on some fronts without any coaxing from yours truly).  Wine has many levels of intricacy and requires a bit more in-depth explanation at times, but we industry folk tend to put wine on a pedestal too often, and forget that it is a beverage first, meant to accompany meals, bind communities and help facilitate communication and social interaction.

As a poet, I was easily drawn into the world of wine with its liquid artistry, and the almost sanguine attributed it possessed, roiling the senses as if I were a newly-turned vampire, craving its divinity at a cellular level.  All kinds of doors of perception were opened after that first glass.  Love, passion, bliss… these were the progeny of my newfound affinity, and wine has become the one mistress my wife can wholeheartedly endorse.

So in the midst of all this contemplation comes Lady Linda with three wines from Daou Vineyards:

The Pessimist Chardonnay California 2011.  Grade=Very Good.  Hints of creamy tangerine and pineapple float amongst a tether of vanilla, lemon and caramel.  A tasty, light-bodied white.

The Pessimist Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles 2010.  Grade=Very Good.  That typical Paso style Cab with its hot, juicy red fruit aromas and flavors playing with baked earth, pepper, mint and spice.

Daou Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon Paso Robles 2011.  Grade=Outstanding+.  Stunning, full-bodied Cab, showing jammy black and red currants, red and black raspberry, cassis, mint and graphite.  Finishes complex, bold and long-lasting.

Ever-present, there is a thin line between making wine easy to understand and showing how multifaceted it can be.  There is an infinite number of choices in the wine world, and helping consumers find the right wine can feel like going to Time Square for New Year’s Eve and trying to find a John Smith in attendance.  The art of this business is for us wine geeks to be informative, entertaining, engaging and endearing, without being a condescending, overblown, narcissistic prick.

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THE DRUNK BACKWARD, CONTINUED: MACROCOSMICALLY APATHETIC, MICROCOSMICALLY EMPATHETIC, AND PROFESSIONALLY COPASETIC

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Out in the Big World:  The continuing whirlwind of life, out there amongst the masses, I cannot help but wonder why it’s all come to this, this divisiveness.  Is it all part of some grand conspiracy, The Man keeps us down, divided, angry at each other for what the other one has more of or less of?  Is it simply the inadequacy of human nature that keeps things all fucked up in the world?

Whether you’re Democrat or Republican, Conservative or Liberal, you have to notice that our elected officials seem hell-bent on maintaining said divisiveness, keeping the loggerhead in state of permanence that has lulled the majority of us into endless lethargy.  What will it take for us to get up from the gridlock and begin to actually move this country forward, and not just around in circles?

Or maybe I still watch too much CNN.

For the most part, I try to avoid politics anymore.  Trying to keep my blood pressure down, I guess.  I used to fly off the handle too often whenever I would see a post on Facebook from one of my conservative friends, or read something ridiculous on FoxNews.com.  You can debate me on the so-called liberal media elite however you want, I am finding it harder and harder to find actual news amidst all of the infotainment slanting on both sides of the debate anymore.  Facts seem secondary, even tertiary to talking points, and anyone with a knack for over exaggeration seems to have a camera in their face, suffering from diarrhea of the brainpan.

I might as well be watching TMZ.

On the homefront: My wife and I seem to be in a better place these days.  Week to week can tend to resemble massive chasms in time for us.  Fortunately our love is still strong, even after 13 years.  She’s had a change in her medication too, and she seems to have more energy, more desire to get up and do things.  A bit of a double-edge sword to me though.  While she’s up and around more, my resultant malaise is being shaken, and I am being dragged out of it, kicking and screaming.  Literally.

Yet we are moving toward a place we haven’t really ever been.  Calm.  I only hope we see more of those days and less of the tumult.

Wines Tasted This Week(s):  93 wines + 2 spirits.

The Standout(s):  Veleta Nolados 2009, Domaine Trevallon Alpilles 2009, Huber Tannat 2010.

What is on my playlist?: American Music Club, Morphine (the band), Queens of the Stone Age

What wine(s) is (are) impressing me right now at the store?: Most of the rosés that have landed.

Recommended reads, blog or otherwise:  St. Augustine, James Joyce

What’s on tap for this week?:  More catching up on all the samples inundating TPS Studios, and a few surprises.

wine reviews

GEM CITY SPIRIT: A VISIT FROM THE PALOMARS AND VELETA WINERY, A BIT OF HOMESICKNESS, AND THE DEATH OF CAFE BOULEVARD GIVES WAY TO THE BIRTH OF LILY’S CAFE

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Not to be forgotten, I met with my favorite winemaking couple, Juan and Nola Palomar and their daughter, Nolita, recently, along with Tony! Toni! Toné!, Dijon and Heidelberg’s Kymber Tymber for a flight of their newest vintages, and I got to thinking about my last full-time restaurant gig – Café Boulevard.  It was almost 16 years ago when I went to work for what would become a mainstay of sorts in Dayton, Ohio’s Oregon District, anchoring part of the Westside of the downtown restaurant district.  I think about strolling into what I would eventually find out was the next door neighbor to one of my Grandpa Brennaman’s many offices for the Dayton Elevator Co., and I was so exhausted by a previous stint at a rather dysfunctional restaurant (though a great deal of my coworkers there I still think of as my dearest friends), I actually tried to hide my managerial experience on my application.

Unfortunately, I would end up running the bar two months into my stint there.

The owner was eclectic, internationally attuned, Croatian-born Eva Christian, who along with her husband, Rodney and son, Julian, became a strange, bohemian part of my adoptive family, and I felt that in some ways, I had become part of theirs.

I spent the better part of three years meeting new people, working with an equal amount, gaining and losing many friends, and even meeting and marrying my wife there.  Yet after those three years, not making much money, I was forced to quit and try something else.  I would soon leave Dayton behind, though it is still and always will be home to me.

And to where I have drifted in this diatribe, my favorite winemaking Daytonians Juan and Nola, it was good to get the staff in front of them, as well as Kymber, who hadn’t yet tried the wines.

Veleta Vijiriega Granada 2012.  Grade=Outstanding.  This version is a bit different than the 2011.  The 2012 shows sweeter pineapple and lemon custard notes, with touches of apricot and white spice.

Veleta Rosé Granada 2012.  Grade=Outstanding.  Pretty, sultry dry pink wine, kissed with Bing cherry and pomegranate notes.

Sierra Sol Tempranillo Spain NV.  Grade=Outstanding.  This is in the running for the Best Damn Value of the Year, showing juicy red fruits, hints of vanilla and cocoa – at this price ($7.99/bottle) – you should be buying this by the case.

Veleta Tempranillo Joven Granada  2011.  Grade=Outstanding.  A bit different style than the Sierra Sol, there is a bit more cedar smoke, dried herbs and dark red berry fruit.  Clean acidity for balance.

Veleta Tempranillo Granada 2010.  Grade=Outstanding.  Gorgeous structure, pretty red fruits and sturdy tannins leave you believing this is one Tempranillo built to last.

Veleta Cabernet Sauvignon Granada 2009.  Grade=Outstanding+.  A real rock star!  Hands down the best Cab from Spain.  Full-bodied, lush black fruits, brown baking spices, pepper and rich oak.

Veleta Nolados Granada 2009.  Grade=Amazing.  I love this wine!  Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot.  Full-bodied, voluptuous red with dense chocolate, blackberry, pepper and spice notes.  Most likely will be high on my Top 100 this year.

Veleta Sweet Melodies Spain NV.  Grade=Outstanding.  This late-harvest Viognier is one-of-a-kind.  It’s lively and effervescent, with sweet apricot, honeyed peaches, white flowers and finishing with bright acidity.  Kind of like Moscato, only better.  Much better.

Veleta Don Miguel Granada NV.  Grade=Outstanding.  A dessert-style red, juicy and jammy with unctuous chocolate-covered cherry, sassafrass, strawberry pie and raspberry coulis.  Finishes slightly dry, giving it delicate balance.

Despite the fact that Juan spends most of his time at the winery or on the road, and Nola and Nolita are headed to Spain for the summer, they remind me of how connected I am to the Gem City, which despite only being less than an hour away, I feel like I live in a different time zone.

And as far as Café Boulevard is concerned, or should I say Boulevard Haus, which they became a few years ago, is no more.  With my former boss’ legal woes, Boulevard Haus was forced to close, and according to Dayton Daily News writer Mark Fisher’s blog, Lily’s Café opened up in their old space.  I wish them well.  It is fitting to wash away what inadvertently became a tarnished eatery with a new name, a new owner and a new direction.

Home is definitely where your head is.  Sometimes.

commentary spirits wine reviews

ITALY ON THE BRAIN: RUDY BASILE STOPS BY, ALFONSO AND THE HOSE INSPIRE, AND THE DEUCE CONTEMPLATES LIFE, LIBERTY AND THE PURSUIT OF RELEVANCE

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Recently, there has been a lot of things Italian on my mind.  A little Milan AC, some Dante, my friend and Vias Imports’ rep Rudy Basile’s recent visit to TPS, and wine blogging comrade Alfonso Cevola’s recent blog post.  Last Friday, Alfonso, who masterfully waxes about all wines Italian at On the Wine Trail in Italy, uttered the fear all us wine bloggers fear – that nobody gives a shit.

I would argue to say that 99.9% of us wine bloggers do this for the love of it, counting our peers and wine industry brethren as our readers (if we are lucky), and staring at the ghost towns of comment sections daily.

Alfonso’s article spoke of fellow wine blogger Ron Washam (the Hosemaster of Wine) recounted surveying around 200 visitors to the tasting room he works, “how many of them read wine blogs?”  The answer, “zero.”  Zero, zip, nada, nyet, goose egg, the Big Nothing.

In seeing this, I am wondering more now than ever, “what the f@%& am I doing?”  I mean, I have said it countless times that I do this for my own benefit, keeping an online diary of all the wines I taste and everything that happens on the job, my job as a retail wine buyer.  Yet I hope that there are folks out there that actually read my drivel and get something from it.

It is the same as if it were one’s real job, the need to feel as though you’ve accomplished something, and that what you do has meaning, to yourself, your colleagues, your customers, your company… you want to have some relevance in this world, it’s a basic human need.

Meanwhile, good friend Rudy Basile dropped in to taste some wines and grappas with The Colonel, Irish T and myself:

Le Dolci Colline Brut Prosecco DOC NV.  Grade=Outstanding.  While I am getting a bit bored with Prosecco, the fact is this is pretty good.  Green apple skin and lime mousse, crisp acidity, and a clean finish make for a very good value.

Lechthaler Riesling Trentino DOP 2011.  Grade=Outstanding.  Showing more in common with Alsatian Riesling, this drier styled white displays clean stone fruit, a touch of white flower, mint and crushed stones.

Terredora di Paolo Rosaenovae Irpinia DOC 2012.  Grade=Outstanding.  Whaddya know?  My first Aglianico rosé.  Gorgeous notes of red plum, Bing cherry, peach and strawberry abound here, mingling with pretty hints of sweet mint and mineral.

Lechthaler Pinot Noir Trentino DOP 2010.  Grade=Outstanding.  Light, soft red with cherries and raspberries, touches of dusty earth, sweet spices and smoky herbs.

Lechthaler Teroldego Rotaliano DOP 2011.  Grade=Outstanding.  Trentino’s signature red grape, Teroldego, is center stage with its black cherry, tobacco, cedar, earth and dark spice notes.  Medium-bodied, bold and well-balanced.

Cataldi Madonna Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC 2010.  Grade=Outstanding+.  The Cadillac of Montepulciano, Cataldi Madonna scores again with its full-bodied presence of dark red fruits, spices and walnuts.

Produttori del Barbaresco Nebbiolo Langhe DOC 2010.  Grade=Outstanding+.  Bold, intense red, full-bodied with spicy tannins, smoky black fruit, black peppercorns, anise and cedar smoke.

Distelleria G. Bertagnolli Honey Flavored Grappa Trentino.  Grade=Outstanding.  Grappa always makes me queasy, but here you have a very approachable distillate, clean, with fleshy stone fruit and of course, the honey.  Very nice.

Distelleria G. Bertagnolli Mirtillo Grappa Trentino.  Grade=Outstanding.  Mirtillo means Blueberry.  Ah, so that’s why I feel like I am drinking my Grandmother’s homemade blueberry pie, fermented and distilled into a smooth, supple distillate.  I could get really wasted on this stuff.

One of the things I learned from Rudy was that coming soon, the D.O.C. (Denominazione di Origine Controllata) – a term we wine geeks have had engrained into our brains – will change to D.O.P., which stands for Denominazione di Origine Protetta, a classification used to define produce.  Wine is a grape, right?  Thank you E.U.

But getting back to the writing for a close circle of like-minded wine geeks, I guess it takes that transcendental someone to create a blog that is more universal, something akin to what Samantha Dugan at Samantha Sans Dosage is doing (she has got to be getting tired of my brown nosing by now).  Becoming less about wine and more about life, she has begun transforming herself into something more relevant to everyday living.

I get that the biggest issue with wine’s image is the exact thing being perpetuated by many wine bloggers, the issue being “elitism.”  Our beer guy here at TPS, Danny Gold, once said, “There are beer geeks and wine snobs.”  He’s not entirely right, but he’s pretty damn close.   It is so easy to fall in love with wine, yet because of its infinitely more diverse base of information – the varietals, the wine producing regions, vintages, etc. – the personae of wine gives the appearance of being out of the reaches of the average consumer.  Beer, not so much.  Anyone can appreciate beer, even if there is a growing multitude of choice amongst craft brewers and imports.

Wine bloggers can tend to add to the element of elitism by the unintentional level of condescendence inferred, whether you are talking about a wine pairing with a 20 course dinner, visiting the wineries of Uruguay or Croatia, or hanging in the cellar of Chateau Ausone and enjoying a 12 year vertical.  I would be all over any and all of those topics, felling a forest to scribble down notes and burning up cameras taking massive amounts of digital pictures.  Believe me.

But it would be easy to see that the average person may see these as pompous, and even worse, irrelevant to their lives and their sources of enjoyment.

Yet I also see the absolute relevance of what we do, what we discuss, what we chronicle.  It is at the very heart of the thrill of experience that we do what we do, and the incessant need to share those experiences with the world, however we can.  Absolutely, not everyone can experience what I experience at my job every day.  My travels, my experiences – the things I learn on the job and on the road – I write them down and chronicle them so I can share my excitement with my staff, my customers, my readers – it’s why I do what I do.

In the end, I like being a wine blogger.  For better or worse, for one reader or a million, the idea of sharing my experiences is not elitism, it isn’t condescending.  It’s simply in keeping with the concepts of the human condition.

wine reviews

THE PERKS OF BEING A WINE TROUBADOUR: THE DEUCE MEETS CHARLOTTE SERVE OF LE MARCHAND FOR A WHINO’S DOZEN

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Last week, Charlotte Serve from Le Marchande dropped into the studio whilst on a whirlwind sales tour of the states, armed to the teeth with what is lovingly referred to here at UTGT as a “whino’s dozen.”  18 wines from France, encapsulated in about an hour.

I had not met Charlotte before, and usually when I meet someone for the first time, I find myself at a loss for words.  Hey, I’ll be the first to admit I am pretty friggin’ boring in person (hard to believe, right?).  Hell, I am more than a bit surprised my wife hasn’t died from boredom after 13 years of marriage.

Yet I digress.

One thing I did ascertain from my meeting from Charlotte – she knows her stuff – as she walked me through a portfolio of value:

French Aperó Sauvignon Gascogne 2012.  Grade=Good.  The nose was a bit aggressive but in the glass, it drinks of lemon, lime and guava notes with a smooth, fleshy finish.

Le Pree Vinette Sauvignon Touraine 2012.  Grade=Very Good.  Lime and melon mixing it up with chalky mineral and a hint of lemon.

Jean Colin Sancerre AOC 2012.  Grade=Very Good.  Citrus notes and mineral combine in a nice, light-bodied white with well-balanced acidity.

Jean Colin Pouilly-Fumé AOC 2012.  Grade=Outstanding.  Clean, crisp acidity buoys pretty lime, honeydew and quince notes.

Domaine Tabordet Pouilly-Fumé AOC 2012.  Grade=Outstanding.  A touch of brine amidst a marionette of lime and crushed limestone.  Pretty and nuanced.

Didier Desvignes Beaujolais Blanc 2011.  Grade=Very Good.  A nice, soft, round Chardonnay, showing toasted apple, pear and hints of Meyer lemon.

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Domaine du Calvaire de Roche Gres Beaujolais Villages 2011.  Grade=Very Good.  Nice, soft, approachable red.

Domaine du Calvaire de Roche Gres Chiroubles 2011.  Grade=Outstanding.  Pretty, floral, with tart cherry and red raspberry notes.

Domaine du Calvaire de Roche Gres Fleurie 2011.  Grade=Outstanding+.  Crushed violets, dark cherry and a hint of dried herbs, finishing with a touch of vanilla bean and cinnamon.

Domaine du Calvaire de Roche Gres Morgon Le Chaune 2011.  Grade=Outstanding+.  Meatier than the Fleurie with some lush notes of black cherry, red raspberry and dusty earth.

Domaine du Calvaire de Roche Gres Moulin-a-Vent 2011.  Grade=Outstanding.  Medium-bodied, creamy cherry and red currant notes, a touch of spice and hints of cocoa.

Antoine Simoneau Gamay Touraine 2012.  Grade=Outstanding.  Soft and supple red with mild tannins, sour cherries, light spices and a touch of red plum skin.

Jean Colin Sancerre Noir 2011.  Grade=Outstanding.  Earthy notes of red berry fruit, geranium, black truffle and chalky earth.

French Aperó Cabernet-Merlot Gascogne 2011.  Grade=Very Good.  Medium-bodied red with touches of cherry, anise, peat and pepper.

Le Debauche Rouge Gascogne 2011.  Grade=Very Good.  100% Cabernet Franc.  Blue fruited with medium tannins, earthy undertones and hints of pepper and spice.

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Domaine des Pasquiers Cotes-du-Rhone Rouge 2011.  Grade=Very Good.  A bit of red berry fruit, blueberry, rhubarb and white pepper.

Domaine des Pasquiers Cotes-du-Rhone Villages Rouge Sablet 2010.  Grade=Outstanding.  Lusher and richer than the CDR, with bold dark fruits, spices and crushed rocks.

Domaine des Pasquiers Cotes-du-Rhone Villages Rouge Plan de Dieu 2010.  Grade=Outstanding.  A gorgeous red, spicy and zesty with red fruits, blueberry and a touch of garrigue.

 

wine reviews

CONFESSIONS OF A SUPER WINE GEEK (SLIGHT RETURN): A #DRINKPINK TESTIMONIAL

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Part one of our onslaught of Pink Wines for the #DrinkPink Movement, the staff checked out the newest French arrivals:

Elicio Grenache/Cinsault Rosé IGP 2012.  Grade=Very Good.  For the money, this is a terrific, fruit-driven blush, dry with soft cherry and strawberry notes.

Chateau du Roquefort Grelee Rosé Mediteranee 2012.  Grade=Very Good.  The big story here is that this wine is the culmination of care and neighborly love, as Roquefort’s 2012 crop – all of it – was destroyed in 7 minutes by hail.  To keep them afloat, their neighbor winemakers got together and contributed enough fruit for them to produce this wine.  And it is a delicious, soft and dry rosé, showing watermelon, pomegranate and red cherry notes.

Bieler Pere et Fils Rosé Coteaux d’Aix-de-Provence 2012.  Grade=Good.  High expectations usually produce major disappointment.  And while this is consistently a customer favorite, we have a lot better ones in stock right now.  Still, this is a solid, dry-style rosé, blended from Syrah, Grenache, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cinsault.

Domaine des Cabotieres Rosé Touraine 2012.  Grade=Very Good.  Made from Grenache and the local grape Pineau Aunis, this turned out to be the star of the lineup.  Spicy, fruity yet subtle and dry, this one is a winner.

Chateau de Lascaux Rosé Languedoc 2012.  Grade=Good.  CInsault, Syrah and Grenache.  A tasty, dry blush revealing supple notes of strawberry, watermelon and red plum.  Hints of spice and crushed stones emerge toward the finish.

Triennes Rosé Mediteranee 2012.  Grade=Good.  High hopes again here.  Dry, soft, almost vaporous in its aromas and flavors of red currant, cherry and pomegranate.  A bit thinner than the others.

Domnaine de Fenouillet Rosé Ventoux 2012.  Grade=Fair.  Earthy, dry with cherry and crushed rocks.  A bit thin and muted with its acidity.  Decent, but others show better.

Domaine Sainte-Eugenie Rosé Corbieres 2012.  Grade=Very Good.  Delicious.  Cinsault, Syrah and Grenache.  Juicier than the last two.  Much more fruit, and more balanced acidity too.

And then two ringers, one from Oregon and the other from Spain:

Acrobat Rosé of Pinot Noir Oregon 2012.  Grade=Very Good.  I’ve always liked this one.  We haven’t brought it into the store quite yet.  First wave of rosés to work through and all.  But soft, elegant and expressive.  Ripe cherry fruit, hints of strawberries, white pepper, dried herbs and crushed rocks.

Las Rocas de San Alejandro Rosé Calatayud 2012.  Grade=Fair.  A bit sweeter than I had expected.  All Garnacha.  Hints of spicy cherry and watermelon, but has a bit more RS than the others.

Most professional wine geeks seem to gravitate toward rosé as an everyday drinking wine, and I am not absolutely certain why.  From personal experience, it pairs with just about everything, it is not too complicated, and is just different than the standard reds and whites we taste on any given day on the job.  #DrinkPink.  It’s not just for Spring and Summer.

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